Northern Threads: Bustle silhouette


Velveteen and satin two-piece ensemble, Portland, ca. 1875

Velveteen and satin two-piece ensemble, Portland, ca. 1875
Item 110361   info
Maine Historical Society

Representing the early bustle period, this modest bustle required either a narrow crinoline or crinolette (flat at front, curved at back) underneath. The bodice is waist length at the front and extends into a gathered overskirt at back. This design feature is reminiscent of a late 18th century robe à la polonaise, a contemporary of the robe à la française exhibited nearby, with how the overskirt’s fabric gathers up, a bit like a curtain valance. The long bodice is cotton velveteen with satin trimmings and metal buttons intentionally left undone at the bottom. The satin skirt both coordinates and contrasts with the dark purple bodice.

Mary Rines Thompson (1918–1992), a member of the Rines family of Portland who operated the Eastland Hotel, Rines Bros. department store, and media outlets including what later became WCSH, donated the ensemble to Westbrook College.

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