Maine Memory Network

During "Northern Threads" physical installation, this young woman’s blue striped bodice and overskirt was paired with a caged crinolette, up lit to show the airy space beneath. Typically, the dress’ sheer fabric required an underdress or underskirt, as well as a sash or belt, none of which survive for this ensemble. The up lighting revealed how the crinolette supports the dress, and leaves room for the wearer’s legs to move freely, without the hindrance of the previous era’s cumbersome petticoat layers.

A crinolette is narrow, pushing out from the back, as compared to the circular hoop skirt style of earlier crinolines. Made from sheer cotton fabric with blue silk stripes, the bodice has a slight waist flare or peplum. Ruffles throughout add stylistic interest. It is difficult to measure length without a surviving underskirt, but proportionally, this overskirt would hit at about mid-calf, the era’s fashion standard for a teen or young woman. The garment is associated with the Ballou (also spelled Ballow) family of Newcastle.