Crinolette hoop skirt, ca. 1885
Item 110680 info
Maine Historical Society
Both functional and structural undergarments appeared under the bustle silhouette. A slip-like chemise and pantaloons formed the basis of every ensemble. Worn under a corset, the chemise protected the wearer’s skin, as well as outer garments from perspiration or soiling. The corset was a necessity, and like silhouettes, they evolved over time.
In the 1870s, corsets were shorter, elongating down over the hip as the period progressed. They were stiffened by baleen (whalebone) or metal, laced at back, with a hook-front enclosure. The silhouette emphasized an hourglass figure, accentuated by the flat front skirt. Flat at front, and protruding at back, a bustle’s size or scale varied, at its shelf-like peak during the third bustle era, circa 1881–1899.
Initially, crinolines or narrow caged crinolettes, as seen here, supported the skirt. This gave way to bustle pillows and tie-on bustles, made of materials like horsehair or wire, and crafted in a variety of shapes and sizes. To smooth out a silhouette, an additional petticoat might be worn over the bustle pad or crinolette.
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