Samuel Freeman's waistcoat, Portland, ca. 1786
Item 7652 info
Maine Historical Society
Samuel Freeman (1743-1831) wore this waistcoat or vest at his marriage to Betty Jones at Portland in 1786. Contrasting with its linen back, the waistcoat’s ribbed silk front is embroidered with chenille and metallic thread designed to be seen when worn with a cut away coat. In less expensive waistcoats, stenciled areas hidden by the coat remain unembroidered, as seen at the shoulder and sides of Freeman’s garment.
Neither embroidery workshops nor silk manufacture existed in America at this time. Waistcoats were imported from Europe ready-made new, second hand, or in flat embroidered pairs ready to cut and assemble. Embroidered waistcoats were the last vestige of color in male dress before somber 19th century dark clothing became the norm.
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